I agree, Target Mill program is cheap and very simple to use.
I agree that shooting straight on at a checkard target often causes washout.
I also agree that targets should only be printed on a laser printer and never on an ink jet printer.
I add that if you can "see" where the center of the target is then just pick a point there and rename it the target name.
I've had good luck with targets I printed at FedEx. I even had the print a 3'x4' checked target on coragated pvc white 1/4" thich. I picked that big target up 700' away. The coordinates scanned matched my Leica T16 1" coordinates within 0.05'
or better.
I also use white tape to stick them directly on control points in the pavement or sidewalks. Saves shooting them up to the side of a wall etc.
Good luck!
Guidelines for printed paper targets
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Re: Guidelines for printed paper targets
Yes the paper has an effect, since the paper is the "white part" of the target.Augusto 3D wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2023 3:56 am I wonder if the paper has an inpact also.
I tried printing in black and white and I am getting mixed results.
Depending on the scanner it does, I have seen a lot of scans where the head on, incidence=0° targets are just white empty spots of reflectance.Augusto 3D wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2023 3:56 am I thought that you wanted to scan targers at "straight on, or head on", as possible.
Are you guys saying that the laser is creating too much glare?